Showing posts with label godslayer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label godslayer. Show all posts

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Tutorial: How to paint a cape or cloak with an airbrush

Hello everybody! Happy Thursday!

Today I will share a tutorial on how I like to paint capes or cloaks with an airbrush. It is a nice and especially quick way to achieve nice shading and highlights on your cape. The easiest way to do this is if you have the cape as a separate bit not yet glued to your model. If the cape or cloak is attached to your model, some masking is required to avoid overspray. Best ways to mask are masking tape, putty or liquid mask. It all depends on the model and preference.


For this little tutorial I use the cape of my Godslayer Halodyne Demarchon. I pinned it so I have full access to all sides without having to touch it. The hole is where I glue the cape to the model so you won't see it.

This is a metal cape so first thing you want to do is clean the metal to have a nice and smooth finish. You can read on how I did that in this article.

Okay so after cleaning and priming lets start painting. This is the step where you define your shadow color. I usually use a set color combination for shadows and highlights.
This is what I usually use:
  • Natural green - brown or purple shading
  • Mechanical green - dark blue shading
  • Red - brown or blue shading
  • Blue - black shading 
  • Yellow - brown or orange shading
  • White - grey highlights
This is gonna be a red cape to match the army. For this cape I chose Vallejo Model Air Mahogany. This is a nice reddish brown that will fit the red that will be added later.

Cape with Mahogany basecoat

Using Vallejo Model Air White I painted the highlights by painting the raised area's. There are several techniques you can use for this like zenithal highlighting. The result should be similar to the picture below. The more white you use the less shadows you will have and the more color. Make sure to keep the transitions smooth.

White highlights on the cape

The white highlights will make sure that the color you will paint over the cape next will really pop. For me, that first color is Vallejo Model Air Fire Red. Just spray it over the brown and white. You will see that the white will really pick up the red color. The brown area's will get a red tint but will stay really dark. 

First coat or Fire Red

The last color will be somewhat of a highlight. I will spray Vallejo Model Air Scarlet Red from the top, making it a zenithal highlight. You will notice the red parts will become more red. 

Highlight with Scarlet Red

Finally, we get to see what the cape looks like on the model. I removed the paint from the 'contact points' with the model using a knife. This will improve the bond with the miniature. When the cape is attached to the miniature it looks like this: 

Final result

Pretty cool right? This is a nice fast technique you can use for gaming models. It is also a nice start if you want to continue layering or wet blending to improve the contrast or color.

I hope this little tutorial helped you all. If you like this tutorial please feel free to share it with your friends, because, sharing is caring.

See you next time!

Monday, May 12, 2014

WIP godslayer halodynes

It's miniatures Monday! Yay!...

Erm...  No it's not.

Don't get me wrong. I have the out most respect for people that are able to think of, create and maintain a successful series using whatever media. I can speak out of experience doing a weekly live show called the Chilling Wargamers with my friend Spud Tate. It is very demanding of your offline life to schedule everything around whatever you have going and it is very hard to keep thinking of new, interesting topics and idea's for your series. A good series starts with a good name. Sadly, most things you will see are things like:
  • Miniature Monday
  • Tutorial Tuesday
  • WIP Wednesday
  • Chilling Wargamers Thursday (doh!)
  • Fantasy Friday
  • Showcase Saturday
  • BatRep Sunday
Sadly I'm not that original so you won't see me thinking of some witty names. Luckily I'm not very structured so making a series with a specific topic on a set day is a no go for me.

Back to topic since I started derailing from the second line in this article. Sorry for that.

In my previous article (link) you can read how I prepare my metal miniatures. Meanwhile I finished preparing and building, basing and priming my Godslayer Halodynes. For the bases I used a plaster concrete slabs product by GaleForce9 for the rocks/tiles and Vallejo basing paste for the sand. (prod.nr 26.218)




I love using Vallejo texture paste as you can apply it really fast and easy using an old, beat up brush and get a realistic looking texture you wont get using white glue and fine sand.


For priming I used dark yellow airbrush primer from AMMO by Mig Jimenez. I believe in full disclosure so I can tell you I got it and many other AMMO products (AK interactive products at the time) for free as a promo pack. You can see me using loads of these products in future articles for sure!


Why did I use dark yellow? No real reason, I had it handy and I think it might be a better base for golds and skin color then light grey is.
The airbrush primer needs to sit and cure for 24 hours so I'm currently still thinking about what my next move should be. Should I airbrush the bronze /gold for the armor and paint the skin manually or should I airbrush the skin and paint the gold by hand?

What do you think? What would you suggest? Please leave a comment to help me decide.
As always, thank you for reading.

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Preparing metal miniatures to paint

Hi everybody, it's Tutorial Thursday!
No, this won't mean I will post a tutorial every Thursday, but it sounds nice... sorry.

Today I will show you how I prepare metal miniatures before painting.

To follow this tutorial you will need:

  • A metal miniature (doh!)
  • Some clippers
  • Diamond-, or jewelers files
  • A rotary tool with a soft, metal brush attachment




For this tutorial, I am using a model from my box of Godslayer Halodynes by Megalith Games. These are metal miniatures resembling ancient Greek hoplites. 


Metal miniatures often look kind of matt. This is due to the mold release agent used to stop the model sticking to the mold. This is a good thing for the model, but it's a bad thing for painting. Be sure to clean your model by washing in lukewarm, soapy water before priming. 

A metal miniature can have mold-lines and flash. Mold-lines are a visible line where the two (or more) parts of the mold came together and maybe were not 100% aligned. Flash is where some of the casting material, in this case metal, leaked in between those mold parts. You can clean these easily by using a file or clippers.

Sometimes the metal looks really rough. This can be micro-pitting, caused by the metal cooling too fast, or too slow, causing the metal to sometimes even crack. This is bad, and you really want to get rid of this before painting. For this I use a rotary tool with a soft, metal brush. this smooths out the metal of the filler if you already filled the cracks.
It serves two purposes, because it also ever so slightly agitates the metal so the primer will have a better adhesion to it.


This is what the miniature looks before the treatment with the rotary tool:


And this is after:


As you can see the metal looks a lot cleaner, and generally a lot smoother. This will show in your paintjob, so the model will look a lot smoother in general!
In the final picture you can also see I removed the little vent connecting the foot to the little base insert. I did this using clippers and smoothing the foot out with my file. 


I hope this little tutorial helped you in any way. If it did please leave a comment below or share it with your friends.